The candles dance and cast comfortable shadows onto the exposed brick walls. The voices of other diners create a gentle buzz, punctuated only by the clink of wine glasses, the pop of prosecco corks, and the occasional fork drop. From the vantage point of my white linen tabletop, the backdrop at Eve is minimalist but not the least bit austere.
A French-style restaurant with international flair and a menu that draws upon North African, Cuban and Vietnamese influences, Eve remains true to its slow food roots. From the moment you walk into this casually elegant Ann Arbor eatery, it is obvious that food is the main focus. The menu reflects a chef who is committed to showcasing seasonal food and artisanal items and to urging her diners to culinary adventure. While you will find such standards as “Simple Fish” on the menu, you will also find braised duck leg in the style of the Orient and burnt sugar gelato. Not listed on the menu, but an integral part of the dining experience, is the bread and trio of butters. The petite wooden cutting board delivered to your table holds a loaf of fresh bread with smoked salmon and mixed herb and passion fruit butters, a blatant invitation to overindulge. One bite of the passion fruit and guava blend has me vowing never to have generic bread and butter again and wondering if I’ll happily ruin the rest of my meal.
If you have difficulty digesting the intriguing selections on the menu or want a favorite that is currently not listed, just ask your server. In all of my experiences at Eve, the wait staff has been extremely knowledgeable and eager to satisfy requests. This night, after my compatriot and I narrow our appetizer choices to the curried mussels and the red beer shrimp, our waitress walks us through the finer points of each dish and eventually helps us decide upon the curried mussels. I do not regret the decision. The mussels arrive at our table simmered in a rich curry sauce with chunks of dense bread perfect for sopping up the delicious sauce. Sometimes a little curry can go a long way, but with this dish the more I eat, the more I want. However, if mussels leave you cold, I also recommend the Thai chicken dumplings as an enjoyable appetizer choice. The flash fried wontons are crisp on the outside and the minced Thai peanut chicken is moist and spicy on the inside, thanks to the addition of wasabi leaf. The dumplings are served with crème fraiche and a carrot lime puree, which act as cooling counterpoints to the spicy meat.
After the curried appetizer, we move on to the entrees: a summer steak filet with chimichurri, sugar snap peas and jasmine scented rice, and the North African scallops. The filet is pleasing though not groundbreaking. The basil-based chimichurri is spicier than most and manages to bring a summer lightness to the beef; the sugar snap peas are perfectly in season with the right amount of crunch. I also appreciate my server’s decision to change the steak from medium to medium rare to avoid an overly dry dish. The North African scallops follow the same route as the beef -- good but not exceptional. The scallops are well cooked for a melt-in-your-mouth quality and, against suspicion, the North African spices do not overwhelm the delicate flavor of the scallop. Yet somehow this dish doesn’t quite sing.
While this trip yields only moderately good entrees, other outings have ventured into the amazing. If the seafood curry pasta is on the menu, don’t hesitate to order it and take home what you can’t finish. Defying most restaurant curses, this dish actually tastes better the second time around. The spices intensify overnight, leaving this dish immensely savory and satisfying.
It is impossible to visit Eve without taking a foray into the world of dessert. If you are a chocolate lover, the triple chocolate pots de crème, a concoction of dark, bittersweet and milk chocolate with a texture similar to mousse, served with a delicious brown sugar cream, is a must order. I find myself batting away my friend’s fork in an effort to devour every bite of this richly textured dessert myself. Not exactly lady-like, but chocolate makes me do questionable things, especially when it’s this good.
It would be a disservice to talk about Eve without mentioning the hand selected wine list featuring over forty wines by the glass and many bottles under $30. If a glass or bottle doesn’t sound quite right, you can also choose from an array of tasting pours and wine flights, inventive cocktails and after-dinner drinks. Perhaps the most original is the Jamtini—homemade Michigan plum jam spiced with Vietnamese cinnamon and Sichuan peppercorns chilled and stirred into vodka. The pomegranate martini made with Grey Goose, pomegranate juice, and pomegranate molasses is delicious, and a glass of good prosecco always satisfies.
Sitting at my table after an exemplary meal, I am content. The décor has served as the perfect background to this impressive culinary journey, and Eve has proven itself an Ann Arbor gem that should not be ignored. Sipping on a 2001 Margaux and sharing a quiet conversation, I am happy to blend into the gentle din of this restaurant accented only by the occasional pop of a cork.
Eve
Kingsley St. between 4th and 5th Avenues
Ann Arbor, Mi 48104
(734) 222-0711
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